Hampyeong Butterfly Festival

This past weekend, three friends and I ventured on a spontaneous trip down south to Jeollanam province, to check out their annual butterfly festival.


The 12th Hampyeong Butterfly Festival was a refreshing sight after months of dreariness during the long, cold winter in Seoul. It being the end of April, we were craving moments of Spring in all it's glory, and wanted to experience and be around nature.

We took a bus from Seoul to Gwangju city, followed by a short transfer to Hampyeong - a rural town in the province. The differences between this place and Seoul were drastic to say the least.


Acres of land with trees, flowers and streams replaced the concrete jungle that I've gotten so used to. The air was fresher, the people smiled more, and there was an overall sense of calm and peace.

It was exactly what my mind, body and spirit needed, after coming back from Thailand. The new semester got off to a chaotic start at my school, and I quickly became quite overwhelmed; not to mention, I'd also been sick for the entire month of March and some of April. So, escaping to an event such as this, was just perfect.

It was a lovely day for families and couples to be out and about, enjoying the events at the festival. We couldn't have asked for better weather, as the sun was shining the entire time we were there. I managed to take some good people shots, some of which included children who had their faces painted with butterflies on them.


The Korean countryside is beautiful, to say the least. It's traditional farmland, with hints of modern technology, all merged into one. We took the KTX back to Seoul from Gwangju on Sunday, and were able to really enjoy the lovely scenery, during our three-hour journey.


I've now realized how easy it is to travel around Korea, and plan on getting out of Seoul as much as I can on weekends. Transportation is a breeze, and there's numerous festivals and events that happen all around the country that I can check out. It's a win-win situation, because I'll be happy to escape the chaos of the city, and my camera will be happy with all the photos.


xo
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Happy Rider

This morning, while riding the bus on the way to school, I must have seen one of the happiest guys that I've come across in a very long time.

The bus had pulled up to a stop-sign while going downhill, and a quick glance out the window showed me a young man riding a much-too-small-for-him bicycle, uphill. This might not seem like such a big deal, aside from the fact that he didn't look like he was seeking breath, or that he was even grumpy for so early in the morning... much like me.

Instead, he was singing to himself, as he leisurely rode up the hill towards Korea University. I couldn't make out what the song was, but he was smiling from ear to ear, while belting the words out with such strength.

It was such a refreshing sight. I must admit it's rare to see the young men and women in my neighbourhood smile so easily.

I couldn't help but wonder what it was that made him so happy. I wanted to run off the bus, chase him down, and inquire. And although I didn't end up doing what I imagine in my mind, I did find myself smiling at 8 a.m. as well -- something that rarely happens, because I'm not quite awake.

So I guess what I'm saying is, thanks, Happy Rider. Your smile certainly was contageous, and just what I needed on this cold, wet, April morning.

xo
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The stranger connection

One of the many joys of traveling (and I mean REALLY traveling... as in getting out of your apartment, familiar grounds, past the people you know and count on, and going somewhere unknown), is the fact that you forget you're alone. It's pretty easy to be reminded of your lack of companionship and plus one-ness, when you come home to an empty apartment everyday. And it's even easier to fall into a rut and get into the whole, "This can't be it!" mindset.

But forcing yourself to get out of the day-to-day and venturing on an adventure, whether grand or small, can be the most rewarding and soul enriching experience you might have... or need.

My trip to Thailand this past February is one that I won't soon forget. Even though I was traveling with two close friends for the duration of the trip, there were many moments where I experienced the new and unknown on my own. I had moments where I thought, "I'm really here... on the other side of the planet, away from my life as I know it." But that thought would soon pass, and I'd think, "Wait a minute... this IS my life! Sweet!"

Living in Korea has been wonderful on so many levels. But because I'm working a daily schedule here, and coming out of the country's worst winter in a long time, I've had bouts of utter loneliness and regret. And it's not just me... almost every foreign teacher I've spoken to has had one or more of these spells. Well, minus the teachers who intentionally stay here for more than two or three years.

Yet... it's passed, for now. I can't promise those moments won't surface again, because I'm human and it's human nature to embrace the happy and sad. These moments define the whole journey, I think. And getting through them is a test of character and strength... or so I'm told.

In any case, back to Thailand. Traveling through the Land of Smiles was a reminder that no one is ever really alone in this world... even if it seems like it sometimes.

One moment that really sticks out in my mind, is an experience I shared with someone in Ayutthaya. We were staying at a guesthouse, close to the ancient ruins, which was run by an older, Thai lady named Somsay. Somsay was 68, but you wouldn't have guessed it, as she had the spirit to match any 20-something I knew.

When we first got to the guesthouse, it was the height of the afternoon, and we were absolutely exhausted from our train-ride in from Bangkok. Despite wanting to sleep and sweat the heat away, we accepted an invitation from Somsay to join her in the makeshift bar/lounge by the side of the house.

Not knowing what we were in for, we went ahead and met a few of the other guests there as well... a young French man, traveling on his own; a Dutch man, who called himself the "Lazy Traveler", and a Japanese man who was also wandering around, solo.

As soon as we sat down, the following is what took place.

Somsay, with the three teeth to her name, sat down and started singing songs from a notebook she'd retrieved from under the bar. "Tom, Tom, you call at night," she sang, with such enthusiasm.

It took us a few tries to catch on to the words, but we soon realized these were songs written for her by other travelers who'd stayed at her guesthouse.

Somsay's book was an eclectic collection of stories -- marks left at her guesthouse and in her heart, by wandering souls who'd connected with her. I felt lucky and fortunate that she was sharing this with us.

It almost felt like Somsay, in all her strange, one-of-a-kind-ness, was a post, meant to connect travelers to one another. By collecting and sharing these songs, she was somehow bringing people together, regardless of them ever meeting.

Though bizarre at the time, looking back I realize, it was pretty cool to have experienced that!

Alone might very well just be a state of mind.

xo
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Will return to regular programming shortly

I've been down for the count.

Since I first encountered that dreaded yellow dust some three weeks ago, I've been in a nonstop battle with a brutal cold and allergies. This all cumulated on Monday, with a visit to the doctor at an international clinic in Seoul, just so he could tell me I had a severe sinus infection that isn't going anywhere for at least another week.

Great.

I feel terrible because this ordeal has caused me to miss three days of school, (and those working in Korea know, regular teachers barely ever take time off)... but hopefully this is the last of it.

Anyway, I just wanted to let you know I haven't abandonned the blog... I'm still here. Just not mentally. I promise more posts as soon as I'm close to 100 per cent.

In the meanwhile, stay healthy and enjoy the firsts of Spring!

xo
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Where in the world?

I decided to take a page from my friend B's blog, and answer her Question of the Day:

"Where would you choose to live if you had to leave your country?"

It's something I spend a lot of time thinking about, actually. Although I am currently removed from my actual 'home' - Toronto - I can't help but think about other places on this planet where I'd love to take up residence.

Leaving India for Canada was a leap for my family. But leaving Toronto for Seoul was a huge step for me.

I have to admit that Seoul was never top on my list of places to live in. I knew a lot of people who had moved to Korea for work and school, but the idea of coming here never really struck a fancy with me. But, somehow, life dealt my cards and now here I am... living and reveling in all the experiences this chaotic and cultural city throws my way. It's definitely been one fabulous chapter in my life, I must admit.

But, I always imagined that I'd someday move to the English countryside.

A quaint English cottage set in a small hamlet in the UK.

Yes, my love-affair with BBC's Pride and Prejudice might have something to do with it... but I've continuously been drawn to the images of lush, green meadows and acres of land you see in travel magazines and online. The idea of a quaint, brick cottage, nestled in a simple garden with an iron fence, sends warm-cozies through my body. Who wouldn't want to live some place that's described as 'charming'? There's something absolutely heartwarming about living in a country that's so rich with history and old-world ambiance.

And as B said in her blog, so long as I'd have the means of transportation to get me to and from my quaint escape, I'd be happy as a clam!

How about you, lovely readers? Where in the world would you move, if given the chance?

xo
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Image courtesy of Google Images

Alive in Ayutthaya

There's nothing quite like walking through centuries-old ruins to help you realize just how small you are on this planet.

After spending three busy days in Bangkok, we took the train just over an hour north of the city, to Ayutthaya. Our goal was to get that small-town experience in Thailand's old capital, while taking in the sights of this ancient city with a colourful past.

My main purpose for this leg of the trip was to see the Wat Mahathat in person. I remember flipping through issues of National Geographic as a child and seeing spreads dedicated to these ancient ruins. I knew I'd find myself among them someday; I just never knew when. And now, a few months after living in the Land of Morning Calm, I can gladly say that they're more majestic in person than any photograph or painting I've encountered.

In Thai, "Wat" means "temple". Wat Mahathat simply means, "Temple of the Great Relic". If you're curious as to what that great relic is, check out the photo below.

Famous Buddha head trapped in a Banyan tree

Yes, this is the Great Relic, dating back to the 14th century -- the head of an ancient sandstone Buddha statue, trapped in the roots of an old banyan tree. You've probably seen this photo in magazines, on TV, or even in posters. But please, if you ever get the chance, try to go see it in person at some point in your life. It was one of the most humbling and beautiful experience I've ever had.

The story goes, the statue, built in the style of the ancient Ayutthaya period, broke off during the many wars and conquests during Thailand's past. Over time, and despite bad weather, the banyan tree began to grow around it, safely enclosing the head in its roots. Now, whether this was done on purpose or by accident is something we might never know. But it's a fascinating story, isn't it?

The roots of the tree continue to grow a little more around the head, with each passing year. When you choose to take a photo with the relic, you're asked to crouch down so that your head is lower than the Buddha head, as it's a sign of respect and tradition.

There are several other statues around Wat Mahathat - all Buddhas, many, with their heads broken off. There's security personnel everywhere to ensure that people, regardless of being tourists, continue to respect and honour these sacred grounds.

At Wat Mahathat, Ayutthaya, Thailand - 2010

As I wandered around in awe, taking in these fragments of a time long gone by, I couldn't help but count myself blessed for having had the opportunity to encounter history face-to-face.

I hope that someday, you'll have the chance to as well.

xo
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Finding my smile in the Land of Smiles

It's almost the middle of march and it's been snowing in Seoul for the past couple of days. I woke up from a nap yesterday evening, only to pull open my window shades and see a mixture of rain and snow fall from the sky. I quickly pulled down the shades, turned up my heater and proceeded to fall back to sleep, while willing myself to dream of a tropical getaway I'd traipsed around, just short of two weeks ago.

Sigh!

Bangkok, Thailand: colourful tuk tuks and motorcycles on hand.

Thailand stole my heart from the minute I stepped out of the airport in Bangkok. Perhaps it was the adrenaline pumping through my system after finally having arrived at my destination... or perhaps it was the shock of actually standing in a warm country; winter jacket tucked safely away in my backpack (it was snowing in Seoul when we left earlier that day). Whatever the reason, I was in sweaty, humid heaven.

Over the next few posts I'll share some specific experiences and pictures with you about my time in the Land of Smiles. And it's called that for a reason. Though Thailand is known to be a hot tourist destination for visitors from across the planet, there's something to be said about the locals, who radiate a warmth I never realized I'd missed while living in Korea.

From the moment we stepped off the plane we were greeted with the traditional "Sawatdee Kaa" (hello), gentle joining of hands at chest level, and beaming, genuine smiles.

This continued on throughout the trip, (well, minus the joining of hands, used mostly for formal greetings). This was such a refreshing change from Seoul, where a smile from a foreigner (especially one like me) ignites stares and 'deer in the headlight' looks from native Koreans.

Ayutthaya, Thailand: A serene view from the guesthouse we stayed in.

I was glad we'd left Korea at the 'end' of winter and just before the start of the new school year. It was therapeutic and rejuvenating to escape to a country where downtime included digging my toes in the sand, letting the fresh sea air sweep through my hair, and watching people from all over the world, as they too indulged in their tropical getaways.

Thailand is definitely not short of scenery. It doesn't matter whether you're in fast and heavy Bangkok, or lounging along the Krabi coast -- just a quick look up or into the distance promises cliffs, centuries-old temples, palaces and traditional markets that can't be matched by any other part of the world, I think.

This trip was of the healing kind for me. It had been so long since I'd been in an environment where people were relaxed, easy-going and worked to live rather than lived to work. My soul was grateful and my mind relaxed.

Now, I'm sure some of you will argue that I avoided scuttling through a lot, in terms of the impoverish pockets in Bangkok or other parts of the country. I'm very aware of all that lacks in this part of the world, but it wasn't the focus of my visit. I was simply looking for all the beauty it had to offer. I wanted it to engulf me and beam through my entire body as I boarded the plane back to Seoul. And it did.

Krabi, Thailand: Ao Nang beach, close to sunset.

It's amazing what a few days in the tropics can do to a person. I kept asking my travel companions why everyone was so much nicer and relaxed. They told me that it definitely had to do with their warm climate and 'island vibe'.

I've always said I'm a tropical girl at heart, though I live in Canada and have now experienced one of the worst Korean winters in over 70 years. I don't think this will ever change. Something about the pace, the heat, the tropical beauty and culture of this part of the world agrees with me. It's where I feel most like myself. Whether it be Goa, India, or Krabi, Thailand -- smiles just come more naturally to me in the tropics.

More soon!

xo
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Back to the bubble

After just over two weeks of backpacking through Thailand, I find myself back at work, staring wistfully out the window. Today I'm wishing I was back with my feet in tropical sands, while sweating with the rest of the locals in the land of (genuine) smiles.

It's a strange feeling, taking a vacation while living in a country that's not really your home. Flying out of Bangkok on Sunday morning, I felt as though I was headed back to Toronto -- not Seoul. But reality checked in pretty quickly once I reached Incheon airport, had to fill out a health-check form, and saw all the signs for the quarantine rooms at the terminals. It's such a contrast compared to Thailand, where people are pretty relaxed about all sorts of issues, it seems.

But, I digress. The point is, the past couple of weeks were an amazing reprieve from my everyday. Spiritually, physically and emotionally, I needed this getaway more than I ever imagined possible. A lot of people thought coming to Seoul was a means of getting away from my life in Toronto. It's quite the contrary actually. I look at what I've built in Seoul as an extension to another part of myself. I've seen and done things here that I never would have had the chance to experience, had I still been in Toronto. But it's definitely come with a price-tag. I gave up a lot to be in Seoul, away from family and friends who mean the world to me. I gave up a job in an industry that's absolutely difficult to get back into, once you've been away. But I'm coasting with hope.

Thailand helped me reevaluate a few of the choices I've made, and strengthened some of my goals as well. It's amazing what a change of scenery and tropical weather can do to a person.

I have just under six months left in Seoul, and I hope to make the best of what's left here. It's the start of a new school year, and I officially begin classes again tomorrow. I've had a chance to meet a few of my new students, and even some of the parents who insisted on speaking with me. My co-teacher is different from last semester, and the teachers who sit around me have been shifted too. It looks like it's going to be a busy few months.

In the meanwhile, I hope to entertain you with stories of my recent trip, along with some photos as well. Look for them in the coming days.

Until then, Happy March! I hope this month will bring sunnier skies and brighter smiles to all of you!

xo
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A getaway to get back

I willingly left Seoul this weekend. This has never happened before, in the five months that I've been here. Sure, I've ventured outside the city for workshops and orientations, but those things were scheduled for me, and I couldn't opt out.

The Taebaek train station.

I'm not certain why it took me this long to board the KTX and head to Taebaek to visit T and her friends. But, in any case, I finally made it through the mountains this weekend. There were a few reasons I chose this time in particular. First of all, it's because T will be leaving the ROK and headed back to Toronto in a month, and this might've been the last chance I had to see her before I took off on my vacation (more on that soon).

Secondly, I was getting restless in Seoul. Can you believe that? It might have been a blend of cabin-fever and the fact that I had way too many thoughts floating through my mind, on way too many topics. Writers always do better with a change of scenery, don't they?

And finally, I wanted to go somewhere on my own. Mind you, I had friends waiting for me at the destination, but the idea of journeying by myself was exciting.

It was pretty cheap, so I went ahead and purchased a seat in the first-class compartment on the KTX. On my way out of Seoul, I was accompanied by numerous ajoshis (backpacks and hiking gear in tow), who were absolutely sober when we pulled out of the station. I guess their plans for the weekend included hiking up Taebaeksan... but if the soju coma they fell into held any indication of their state, I'm not certain they even made it out of the train. For three out of the four-hour journey I was lulled into a trance by the symphony of snores coming from men passed out around me. A definite first, I'll admit.

Generally, it was refreshing to be away from Seoul. Literally, I didn't realize I hadn't inhaled fresh air in such a long time. I didn't even know it, because I have become so used to the thick and smoggy Seoul air. I lucked out with sunshine over the weekend as well, and it wasn't as cold out in Taebaek as I feared it would be. Walking around the streets was comfortable... and I didn't have angry drivers trying to run me down. Then again, they didn't have stoplights either, so crossing the street at random was not only OK, it was encouraged.

It was nice to see the place that T has been talking about for almost two years now. Everything from her apartment to her favourite haunts was finally all in front of me.

Hwangji pond in a little park in Taebaek.

And yes, Seoul does have mole hills compared to Taebaek's mountains. While I was out there, I actually felt a little sad that I wasn't placed in a smaller town for work, rather than in Seoul. I always say that Seoul is exactly like Toronto... except with a massive language barrier and triple the amount of flashing neon lights.

I imagined myself there for a long time, getting used to the little quirks that make up the beauty of small towns. Little moments over the weekend made me long to get away from the big city and simply take in the entire experience from this perspective. I was even thoughtful when I woke up this morning and prepared to take the train back to Seoul.

As I headed back to familiar territory, still feeling pensive about what I'd just experienced, I found myself getting anxious (a not-so-fun feeling). But then something happened. As the train turned the final bend in its journey to the city, my face brightened, sending an instant smile to my lips for the first time in hours.

I watched the mountains disappear, being replaced with tall high-rises and the majestic Hangang river. I saw cars and trucks race each other on the freeway, in an urgency I'd put on pause during the weekend. There were cosmopolitan crowds of people hovering over booths in makeshift marketplaces that lined the train-tracks in various pockets throughout the city.

Seoul - calm chaos, February 2010

And I realized how much this all made sense to me. Seoul, in all its calm, chaotic confusion, is currently my home. And although I didn't ask to be here, I am here. I've lived in cities my entire life and it's where I feel most like myself. I treasure trips, vacations and getaways every now and then to help refresh, but at the end of the day, I'm part of the chaos and the chaos is part of me. We work well together. And that's what keeps me smiling today.

xo
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The world in my shoebox

Multicultural: adj.
1. Of relating to, or including several cultures.
2. Of or relating to a social or educational theory that encourages interest in many cultures within a society rather than in only a mainstream culture.

Having lived in Seoul for just over five months now, I think it's time I shared a little bit about the relationships I've formed here.

I always imagined that moving to a different part of the world would expose me to new cultures, ideas and people, and that I'd eventually make new friends. What I never expected, was to move to a new country, only to connect with people from all ends of the planet.

My journey in Seoul began with a fabulous perk -- a mandatory orientation where 100+ teachers from across the globe had to coexist in a dorm-style facility for just over nine days. When in a situation like that, one is bound to form connections and create relationships based on common interests, goals and backgrounds. You're sort of given instant friends. And that's precisely what happened.

Five months into my stay, I can truly say I've been blessed in that respect. The epiphany hit me a few weeks ago when a few of us gathered at my shoe box for some wine and chit-chat. I had stepped out of the room for a bit, and when I came back in, I couldn't help but pause and look around. There, in my little, dressed-up, Manolo shoe box, sat friends representing various countries such as China, South Africa, Iraq, Columbia, USA, Canada and Korea. We also have a representative from the United Kingdom from time to time, but she was away learning Korean on this particular evening.

I couldn't help but smile.

This is the essence of travel -- stepping out into the wide world and realizing that there's more to life than the status quo. It's about understanding that connections can be formed with people, regardless of language barriers, skin colours or geography.

Dear Readers, I truly wish you could listen in on some of the conversations that take place among us. They're filled with rich stories of culture and days long gone. We talk about values, traditions and our colourful families. One of us even told a story about her grandmother's 'witch' cousin, back home! True story!

All in all, I wouldn't trade any of this for the status quo, because the joy and absolute laughter that bubbles out of my little shoe box on 'wine and chit-chat' nights, is something that I'd like to bottle up and treasure for the rest of my life.

These are some of the simple pleasures that come when traveling with an open mind and an open heart.


xo
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Image courtesy of Google Images

Toasty toes and toasty buns!

I'm starting to get restless.

I'm sitting at my desk at school, feeling terribly cold, and am dreaming of tropical escapes. Nothing out of the ordinary, right? But moments like these make me wonder what I was thinking when I decided to move to a country that experiences a similar winter to that of Toronto.

Well, I guess this wasn't the case always. Seoul is known to have winters where snow falls to the ground and melts away at once, because of all the pollution. But, this year, for some strange reason, we were given heaps and heaps of it, with no price tag at all. Well, maybe with a 'freeze your behinds off' price tag. Literally... you freeze if you're outside... and if you're not already frozen by the time you come in, you're guaranteed a frozen kaboose when you sit still or even lay on your bed inside.

This is where I need to express my thankfulness to two fabulous inventions in Korea.

First - Ondol floor heating. As someone who has cold feet 365 days of the year, I take full advantage of the amazing pockets of heat emitted from my floor. There's no better feeling than laying a pair of socks on apartment floor, only to wake up in the morning, put them on, and have instantaneous toasty toes. Ah-may-zing!!

Second - The bidet. Not for it's flushing purposes, because, believe me, the last thing I want is to have the toilet attack my... uh... special places. BUT, you know how in the winter you dread going to the bathroom because it's so frigid, so you end up holding everything in until the last possible moment? Well, you don't have to do that if you have a bidet! It has a seat-warming function! Absolutely serious here... you sit, and the next thing you know, you've got toasty buns!! Fabulous if you're suffering from the above mentioned frozen kaboose.

All that aside, I am looking forward to warmer temperatures. I miss traveling, and have been confined to Seoul for way too long. It's not that I can't travel through the rest of the country, it's just that I'd rather not, seeing as how everything is buried under a thick blanket of snow.

I must admit that this country is absolutely beautiful in the winter -- all the ancient gates and architecture, perfectly covered in snowy white... it's a sight that will be preserved in my memory for a long time to come. But I cannot wait for warmer days, so that I can really relish in all that Korea has to offer in terms of sights and scenery.

(I'll probably be eating my words here, once I start sweating buckets in the humid summer months.)

But until then, I will go on planning my tropical escape in February - destination to be determined.

Stay tuned.

This is a picture I took from my window a few days ago. I woke up to some giggling outside, and all I saw once I drew the blinds was this. Sadly, I don't share the same amount of enthusiasm for the cold as this lovely artist. But I am touched by the sentiment.

xo
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Image courtesy of StraightFromTheCurls

C is for Couples... I mean, Christmas... I mean...

Merry Christmas! ...but only if you're a couple. Screw you, if you're solo (or single).


"... and here I thought being single in Toronto was bad," I said to S, as we walked through the sea of tinsel and bows that flooded the newly built shopping mall by her house. "But this is just taking it to a whole new level. We've been here since September and there's been not one but two, TWO holidays dedicated to couples!"

S stifled a laugh. She's become used to this, I think. I've started to just blurt things out as I see and observe. Nothing is filtered anymore. It can't be helped. This country is just... random.

"I mean, look at this! Who gives out cards with big, red hearts on them, for Christmas??" I asked, while picking up and analyzing an over-sized package that looked more fitting for a valentine's special.

"What happened to 'Christmas is for families'... what about baby Jesus?" I didn't understand why I was becoming so irritated. Then, words I didn't realize I'd said out loud, flew past my lips.

"Thank you baby Jesus for being born, so that I can ____ a ______!!"

As I said this, I felt a sharp pain on my shoulder. S was hitting me. Repeatedly.

"Why are you doing that?" I asked, even more annoyed now.

"It was either roll on the floor, laughing at what you just said, or hit you."

Fair enough, I suppose.

But truly, for the first time in years, I find myself willing the holiday season to be over and done with. The concept's all wrong here. Sure there's twinkly lights galore, and Christmas songs blasting from almost every corner in the city... but something's off.

In the weeks leading up to Christmas, I asked some of my coworkers what their plans were for the holidays. "Will you be making dinner?" I asked Mrs. P, over lunch in the cafeteria.

She nonchalantly bobbed her head and continued to munch on her kimchi... she was thinking.

"Christmas is a big deal for you," she said... it was more a statement than a question. "But in Korea, Christmas is for lovers."

What? I couldn't have heard that correctly.

"Don't you mean Valentine's day?" I asked, still not sure we were on the same page.

"That one also, plus Pepero day... White day too," she said.

So she was essentially telling me that even though this country had not one, but THREE days dedicated to couples and coupledome... they were now also designating Christmas as a "holiday for lovers."

... I had no words.

I was flabbergasted, as I dug into my rice and breaded fish.

"S, you're solo. Aren't you going to be lonely for Christmas?" said a new voice.

I looked up to see one of the other teachers had decided to join the conversation. Mrs. P had quickly managed to translate what we were talking about, and now it seemed as though everyone at the table was intrigued.

"Why would I be lonely?" I asked. "I mean, it's my first Christmas away from my family, but I'm not lonely. I have my friends who are like family to me over here."

I was fuming at this point. What was wrong with them? Had they not watched Christmas movies or specials on TV? My brain went through the mental archives to try and find one example of a movie that designated Christmas as a "lovers holiday". Not one. I mean, of course there's the sentimental ones that deal with love as part of the holidays... but definitely none that make it centre focus.

"But don't you want a namja-chingu?" asked Mrs. S. That was the Korean equivalent of 'boyfriend'.

What I wanted to say was, "No, I'm actually in the running to become the Slut from Seoul, you know?"

But what came out was, "Actually, yes... but definitely not from Korea. The men here are too... needy. I could never walk out in a matching couple's outfit and be serious. Sorry!"

This drew a mixed reaction from the table, which consisted of mostly older Korean teachers.

I had to have some sense of honesty here. Otherwise they would spend all day debating the fact that baby Jesus WAS in fact born so that I could ____ a _____!

Not in my mind.

Anyway, that being said, MERRY CHRISTMAS, dear readers! I love you all very much and hope you have a safe and fabulous week ahead. Sending warm wishes and beautiful thoughts to you and yours!

xo
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Workshop Vacation

On Friday this past week, I had to attend a mandatory workshop at my neighbourhood office of education. The last time I had to sit through one of these, it was on a Friday afternoon, just before my weekend began. Needless to say, the roomful of teachers were neither excited nor thrilled about that fact. So, as you can imagine, we weren't looking forward to this one either. Especially because they told us it would take up the entire day.

We got lucky, though! This time, the district office of education had planned a day trip for us, to Nami Island in Korea's Gangwon province. It was such a wonderful surprise, and a well deserved break from the daily grind of teaching ESL. Here are some of my favourite photos from that trip.


They say that Nami Island is a place for lovers. It's funny, because right now I can say that just about any place in Korea is a place for lovers. There's couples and cute couple-ish things in almost every neck of the woods out here. However, it's pretty obvious that with each season, Nami Island draws tons of lovers to its romantic and scenic nature trails. It's kind of neat, because most of the older Koreans stay away from it... they prefer mountains and hiking trails. More on that in another post.


We took a short ferry ride from the mainland to the island. It was absolutely breathtaking... being surrounded by mountains and crisp, fresh air. A welcoming change from the constant layer of smog that surrounds Seoul. And the funny part about this, is that you don't notice how bad the air is in the city, until you leave it.


One of Korea's most famous dramas, Winter Sonata, was filmed here. The entire island has signs on it that refer to various scenes from the drama. It's a love story, go figure. What a perfect place to film it. Even my (maybe) cynical heart felt warm and cozy as I walked the trails and took in the refreshing scenery. You can't help but feel happy on Nami Island!

xo
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A burst of inspiration

It's taken three months and many reality checks for me to finally say I've settled into my Seoul digs. I'm at peace with the shoebox, I've come to terms with the bills, I've accepted the communication barrier, and, finally, I've found inspiration again.

I spent most of the past 24 hours flipping through National Geographic Traveler's Dec '09 issue, and I simply want to teleport myself into the photographs I saw.

Mind you, I'm trying to plan a getaway for the early months of 2010, so this magazine couldn't have landed in my lap at a more perfect time. I remember having this exact feeling of excitement and euphoria when I realized I'd actually be moving to Seoul. I listed all that I wanted to see and do in this wonderful city of paradoxes, and couldn't wait to get here.

Now that I'm here and feeling slightly more settled, I'm looking at what's around me. I finally realized today, that I'm actually LIVING in EAST ASIA! How amazing is that?? I'm closer to some of the world's most ancient and beautiful places, than I ever was when I lived in Toronto. So, it's time to make the best of this adventure.

I've been playing around with options. I know I have to visit Japan, not necessarily because I want to go there desperately... but because it's so close in proximity, that if I don't visit, I'll feel like the biggest tool in town.

You have no idea how cool it felt to just say that.... "I'm close to Japan!"

So, dear reader, if you have a moment, please take a spin through my thoughts with me.

My first choice is Palawan in the Philippines. This came under high recommendation from a friend who lived in Taiwan for a while. She said there's no other place on earth that compares to it, and, after Googling some images, I think I'm starting to agree. What do you think?

Palawan, Philippines

Now, I know some of you will say, "If you've seen one beach, you've seen them all." And perhaps you're right. But I definitely don't feel that way. I spent the greater part of my childhood in the tropics, and any excuse to inhale fresh, salty air, and dig my toes into the sand while listening to waves hitting the shore, sounds alright by me. Just look at that photo! Don't you simply want to dive right in?!

My Second choice is Bali, Indonesia. Why? Well, some of you may know of my affair with Elizabeth Gilbert's book Eat Pray Love. In part three, she talks of Bali and all its mystic beauty and serenity. I want to see it to believe it. That's all there is to it. Again, Google Images never fails to deliver.

Bali, Indonesia

Sigh! Just look at that photo. It's captured so well, isn't it? Can you imagine just traipsing around the island for a few days, talking to locals and walking away from it all, feeling alive and inspired?

Living in Seoul is a lot like living in Toronto. Well, except for the major language barrier. But it's quite easy to forget that I'm living on the other side of the world, far from all that used be comfortable and static. If I allow myself, I think I might just as easily leave Seoul after a year, having not done much else from what I'm doing right now.

I think that would be the biggest disappointment for me.

So, in keeping with trying to get away from neon lights and cityscapes, last on today's list, but certainly not least, is The Great Wall of China.

I know the list has changed as of late, but I grew up knowing that The Great Wall of China was one of the Seven Wonders of the world. And from the moment I learned of it, I knew that I wanted to visit it someday. This would be an opportune time, don't you think?

The Great Wall of China, China

Can you imagine anything more amazing than having a chance to visit this spectacular historical site, that goes on for miles and miles? I know a lot of you reading this may have already done so, but the thought of setting foot on this ancient wonder has me giddy with excitement.

Anyway, I needed to get that out. All of this may or may not happen, but I feel thrilled that I've set these down so that I can finally start planning. Fingers crossed that it all happens, yea?

Thanks, friends! Please stay tuned for updates, and do share your thoughts.

xo
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Images courtesy of Google Images

Merry Chuseok

It's Chuseok day, here in Korea. I never thought I'd see this happen, but the entire city of Seoul has pretty much shut down. In fact, this started happening as of Thursday. Even the construction workers stopped with the drilling and banging, to take a rest and give thanks. I heard that Chuseok (or Korea's version of a harvest festival) is an even bigger holiday than Christmas, here.

Yesterday, a bunch of the Seoul strays (friends who've stayed in the big city over the holiday weekend), decided to head up to Gyeongbokgung Palace in Insadong to check out the Changing of the Guard ceremony... and to find this beautiful stream that we learned existed in the back of the palace grounds.

It was a great way to start the holiday -- with a traditional Korean cultural experience. In fact, because of Chuseok, there was a sign up on the ticket counter that said people wearing traditional Hanboks could enter for free.... and many did.

Here are some photos from the day.

This little girl walked by with her mother during the Changing of the Guards ceremony. I loved the colour and cute little Hanbok.

Gyeongbokgung Palace and the royal Changing of the Guards ceremony.

Korea is amazing. There's these fabulous, centuries-old palaces that are preserved so well, all over the country... and all around them are these growing, towering metropolis'.

Me with one of the royal palace guards. We could take photos with them as long as we didn't touch them...

I saw this photo in a guide book that my friend, H, gave me in Toronto. I was determined to capture the real deal on my own camera.

K and I take a break by the stream to play with the catfish. Doesn't the backdrop look fake? Thanks, C, for taking this shot.

xo
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LOVE locked down

Some friends and I visited Namsan Tower and the Teddy Bear Museum in Seoul this past weekend, to celebrate our one-month anniversary in Korea. We were pretty thrilled about the perfect weather that Saturday brought us, and were absolutely entertained by all the sights and sounds that greeted us during our trip. Everything from cotton-candy (in cups, no less) booths and dried/smoked fish in paper bags were available as treats.

It was my first experience watching the seniors in Korea trudge up and down the hill with no sense of physical ailment or age. I was fascinated and humbled all the same. My friends who climbed Suraksan mountain in Seoul, said they've witnessed older Korean men and women climb the mountain as though it were a relaxed Sunday stroll through an even park... except the mountain is rocky and almost at a 90 degree angle.

This country and its people never cease to amaze me.

On that note, here's my thoughts about one of the many things that stood out during my trip. The following are a series of photos I took while around the Namsan Tower grounds. These are the Locks of Love that can be found on the fences, stairs and railings that surround the tower grounds.

From what I've read, these are locks that visitors to the tower grounds have purchased or brought and attached to the various areas of the grounds. They're meant to symbolize 'forever' kind of love and the idea is that if you attach the lock and dispose of the key... you're bound forever. But... just don't throw the key away, off the cliff.

This is just one of the many sections of locks. They went on forever, in all sorts of directions. There's locks upon locks of people from all over the world... couples who've left messages for each other, and some, with messages to the world. It's kind of neat. I wish some of you could see the real deal!

That's the Hangang river in the distance. This river flows right across Seoul, and it's truly majestic, as it winds it's way from east to west. I hope to see it at night soon. I've only seen it while taking the subway across town to get my Mac fixed. The view from the Namsan Tower grounds is truly humbling.

After we got over our initial shock at seeing all the locks, we decided to dig deeper and check out some of the messages. This is the first one I found. It reads: "I was lucky to come to Korea... It was a destiny to meet you... I LOVE YOU! Tyler + Jieun Forever."

I'm not quite sure why, but I feel this pronouncement of love is being made to the TTC in Toronto. I think it might be the way the bow is designed. Needless to say that after seeing the Seoul subway system, I don't share this lover's sentiments.

This one reads: ":) Yay! 4 months we've been together. I don't know when we are gonna come back to see this, haha, but I know I'll still feel the same way about you :) I really care about you and I really can't stop thinking about u (you!) :)." Annoying.... must be puppy love!

This was too cute to pass up. There were many locks on these fences, varying in sizes, shapes and styles. This pair was cute.

I saw this one and thought about SK's obsession with the H1N1 virus... Perhaps the key to happiness amidst the chaos caused by the virus is inside this lock/capsule?

This one seems classy and traditional... but almost sad. These love locks are all holding on to this one simple lock. A blend of modern combination locks and padlocks... I think I'm also amazed that heart-shaped combination locks exist.

This one was also kind of nice. It reads: "Joel, Mahal Na Mahal (which, I believe is in Tagalog). I wait for you. I will always love you. I will always keep you here inside my heart. Thanks for loving me."

I loved this one. The pink lock with the red heart stands out so simply despite it's small size. It doesn't have any messages on it or anything else. I wonder what the person's thoughts were as they attached it to the fence. I hope that they were either in absolute love... or absolutely hopeful.

I fell in love with the romance that this lock showcased... it was rusty and worn out. It caught my eye from a distance, and I decided I needed a closer look to get a sense of how long it had been up on the fence... June 27, 2009. Hmm.... well, depending on how you look at it, three months can be a long time, I guess...

I think this one is definitely one of my favourites... not because of the big, obvious, red heart, but because of the message. It reads: "Babe - I love you more 2day (ugh!) than I did yesterday. But less today (yay!) than I will tomorrow." The hopeless romantic inside me wished this was original... but I felt I'd heard these words before. A quick Google search when I got home showed that these are actually lyrics from Ku-U-i-Po; a song sung by Elvis Presley in Blue Hawaii. It still warmed my heart.

Then there was this one... It turned out blurry for a reason, I guess. It reads: "Hi Ella! I feel so happy to be with you here right now. Even though I might be getting angry, I hope you don't thik I am changing. :) You have no idea how thankful I am to have you in my life. Whenever I look at you I think that I love you so much more." ... Hmm... don't be angry, buddy! You're surrounded by love locks!

Talk about a locked fence! But just in case you didn't get the message... don't try to enter through the Love Lock Fence!

I hope you enjoyed these photos as much as I enjoyed experiencing them. Please share your thoughts with me when you have a moment.

xo
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A block around my Seoul

Well, I've officially been in the Land of Morning Calm for two weeks. Can you believe that? I can't! It seems like so much longer, but in many ways, it feels as though I just stepped onto that plane at Pearson International.

My first solo, international flight. I never thought I'd see the day. It wasn't so bad though... I lucked out and got the most direct flight across the world to my home for at least the next one year.

My 10-day orientation is officially over and I'm inching on the one-week mark of living at my new home.

I should probably give you all a visual of what my friends have come to know as my "Livable Manolo Shoebox".

Yes, I think my apartment for the next year defines the notion that South Korea is shy on space and is a mostly vertical-neighbourhoods community.

I live in a teeny-tiny apartment... but it has everything I need. If you imagine a shoe box and place all the amenities, a bed, a study table, a shelf, a closet, a window and a bathroom in it, you'll pretty much be able to visualize it.

Here's a photo if you need some help. What you don't see is the washroom (I'm taking the photo from there) and the front door, which is to the left of my fridge, at the bottom left of this photo. It may be small, but I'm thankful to have a space that I can call my own.

I live in a brand new apartment building in Anam district. Directly to the north of me, Korea University (a private university) shows off it's large buildings and brilliant architecture. It's quite parallel to my neighbourhood, which is just across the street.

For all my fellow Torontonians, I suppose you could say I live in what we know as The Annex. It's the cool place to be for young, hip university students. It's loud at night, and the neon lights never stop shinning through my window. Actually, now that I think of it, I don't think any of the stores in South Korea turn their neon signs off at any point.

My building, which is still under construction, is off an alleyway. It's gated and has a coded entry, but once past the gate, I come face to face with the back ends of overpriced coffee houses (or caffés) and restaurants.

When I walk along the street to the east of my building, I sometimes feel as though brand-chains came by and threw up two of each on the street.

Examples? Well, I have two 7-eleven's warring across one another, a Starbucks, a 24-hour McDonald's, a Dunkin' Donut's, a Holly's Caffé (which ended up being my kryptonite during the days without Internet)... and the list goes on.

On the same street there's also a handful of PC-bangs (Internet cafes) and about six coffee shops, each filled to the brink with cool and trendy university students. Oh, and I also lost count of all the Italian restaurants. True story.

Flip to the street on the west side of my building. It's kind of scary because of all the bars and open patios that are filled with students and older Korean men, alike. I think this part gets excessively loud at night, but I've begun to drown them out.

All the neon signs in my area have had me walking around in circles a lot. Everything tends to look the same after a while. I've started to look for landmarks to remind me where I am. It's pretty interesting, though, because if I walk through the alleys and side streets between the large neon signs and brand powered chains, I find cute older Korean women selling fruit and items in stores at a much lesser price than the ones that cater specifically to Waegooks (foreigners).

I've also begun to become immune to the three (yes, THREE) billiard halls that I can see directly out my window. I'm on the 5th floor of a six-storey building, so I'm at eye-level with these rooms, which exist on top of cafés and restaurants.

I walk to and from school. It's about a 20-minute walk each way, but I don't mind it. I think overall I lucked out with a pretty good area in the sense of proximity.

I'll have more on my first two weeks in Seoul in upcoming posts.

Till then, thank you for reading!

xo
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Noraebang Queen

I don’t know what it is about these singing rooms in South Korea, but a few minutes in one and you’re certain to morph into someone you never imagined being.

Take for instance my last night of orientation with the other guest English teachers. We went out to a seafood buffet and came back to our dorms to get ready for a night out on the town. The staff was nice enough to extend our 1 a.m. curfew by an hour and we intended to take full advantage of it.

We headed out to Wa Bar – our nightly watering hole for the past week – and then, to a Noraebang (singing room) in the building next door. Perhaps it had something to do with the fact that everyone was happy to have finally completed the nine-day orientation, or maybe it had something to do with the mass consumption of soju… but everyone seemed euphoric.

I think we must have taken over four rooms, with at least 15 people in each room at a time. If any of you have seen these rooms before, you’ll know that they’re not spacious. Cozy, but definitely not large.

And as for me, I’m not sure what happened. I just remember hopping from one room to the next, singing one song here, and jumping to another one there… and smiling from ear to ear the entire time. Even the most reserved of those in the group were belting out Pearl Jam and Journey. One of the staff members even asked to sing “2 become 1” by the Spice Girls. I played the tambourine for that one.


I am starting to understand why noraebangs are so popular in South Korea. In fact I think we need them in North America. They offer a sense of liberation from all that weighs you down and stresses you out. People who don’t normally talk in everyday life can perform amazing duets when in the confines of these tiny rooms. I guess you can liken it to the “what happens in Vegas, stays in Vegas” phrase. No one talks about what happens at the noraebang, once outside the noraebang.

Oh! An added bonus? You’ll be sweating up a storm while performing, so you’re certain to shed a mass amount of calories. By far the funnest workout!

xo
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Seoul far

Wow!

I never imagined losing a whole day on a flight across the world would take such a toll on my system. I've been in a haze... a constant state of complacence... I've been agreeing and nodding my head to every instruction thrown in my direction. My mom would be proud!

I woke up at 4:30 in the morning, wired and wide awake. I meant to wake up at 7 a.m. to go get my medical exam done at the hospital for 8. I guess the jet lag is taking it's toll. It was also boiling in my room at night - the AC was turned off automatically in the middle of the night, across the building. A good way to save energy... if it's not boiling in the building already. But I also think that's the jet lag talking.

I have a roommate, and we're staying in the dorms at the NIIED in Seoul. I'll be here for about nine days before heading out with my co-teacher to the apartment they've got lined up for me.

Entering Seoul was a bizarre experience. There's something to be said about being in a place where you don't recognize any of the signs... save for the little woman on the door, telling you it's the ladies room.

I bought a calling card while at the airport, and had to teach myself to use the payphone. Who knew that I had to hit the 'emergency' button on the phone, in order to use my calling card?

As I waited for the bus at the airport, I noticed a lot of young American guys mulling around the gate. Every so often an army guy would come in and yell for them to get on a bus. He would refer to them by their numbers. I guess they were all serving time on the American army base in Incheon.

The bus ride into Seoul from Incheon was interesting. It didn't feel like I was on the other side of the world... until I'd look out the window and see fields, water, and traffic that's somewhere in between the chaos of Goa and the organized mess in Toronto.

Generally speaking, people have been very nice and open. I've already had two people ask me if my naturally curly hair is a perm. I also think I bonded with one of the program workers, who was mock-timing me while I struggled to give them a urine sample at the hospital, this morning. Hey! I hadn't had anything to eat or drink in 12 hours. Give a girl a break.

Anyway, all in (less than) a day's work. I will have a post with photos soon. Until then, lots of love, from Seoul!

xo
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p.s. For all those of you wondering, Yes, I am loving the scenery at the NIIED dorms. :)

No baby steps

What's that point between absolute exhaustion and nervousness? So much so, you know you're craving some much needed bedtime, but you can't fall asleep? Is there a word for it? Because that's where I am at the moment.

I'm sitting on my empty bed, in my empty bedroom, with two stuffed suitcases and a carry-on bag that I pray will make it past the check-in counter. The car will be here at sunrise to drop me off at the airport.

I wasn't going to blog tonight, simply because I'm not sure where my thoughts are.

On one hand I can't wait to begin this new adventure. I'm excited for all that I've yet to learn, observe and take part in. I want to add to who I am, in the hopes that I'll become a better person down the road. I am going into this experience with an open heart and mind, knowing that whatever comes my way will enhance my character and help define my place on this earth.

Then, the other part of my brain kicks in, and I find myself shaking with fear. No, not the fear that's crippling (I'm well past crippling), but the kind that makes me second guess myself, and tends to over think and over anticipate. None of which I want to do.

I'm hoping the part that's willing to go with the flow and embrace all events and happenings will somehow overthrow the nerves.

I'm looking forward to sleeping on the plane.

To all of you who've shared your thoughts, comments and wishes with me over the past few weeks, THANK YOU! Your support has meant the world, and your actions and words will forever remain in my heart.

Here's to the next chapter... I can't believe I'm actually doing this!

xo
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